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JUL-AUG 2016

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22 J U L Y / A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 scallops. I'd never had an ink squid dish, and when it arrived, it was the blackest plate of food I've ever seen. It was so black I wondered if the table next to me was discussing it. I devoured the scallops and did what I could with the black risotto. THE RICH AND FAMOUS "The Grimaldis have ruled Monaco for 700 years — ever since a lord declared himself a prince," said Becky, as we arrived in Monaco Ville, Monaco. "Some of you may want to stroll through town and do a little window licking. That's French for window shopping." I'm not much for window licking, so I headed over to the Ocean- ographic Museum, which has lifelong ties to French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, and spent an hour or so. Upon arrival in Monte Carlo, Monaco, several in our group went to the Monte Carlo Casino, but a few of us stayed outside to watch Sunday drivers in sports cars rumble through the park. A huge terrace bar sits opposite the casino and the nearby Hotel de Paris. Like hundreds of oth- ers on this gorgeous afternoon, we had a beer and watched the constant parade of Porsches, Lamborghinis, Ferraris and misguided Hondas. We arrived for dinner that evening in Eze, but a mist rolled in before we could get clear views of the vistas from this penultimate perch on the sea. This tiny medieval enclave corkscrews up a steep mountain- side some 1,400 feet above the Mediterranean. Its galleries ooze origi- nal art and I'd love to go back. We had a boisterous dinner there at Le Pinocchio, triggered by liberal servings of French wine. KNOCKING AROUND True to the concept of this tour, we had one full day on our own. I found the back way to Nice's harbor, walking through town and past Garibaldi Square, where pastel buildings surround street musicians and dogs on strolls. I spent the morning photographing the harbor and had a smoked salmon salad for lunch at Café Le Lunel. Then I caught City Bus 15 up to the Chagall Museum on Cimiez Boulevard. This park-like museum is in a residential neighborhood and features many paintings by the Russian-French artist that explore his scriptural and whimsical musings. Large canvasses reveal his fascination with Old Testament stories like Adam and Eve or Abraham and Isaac, and colorful creatures populate many of his paintings. Chagall was 97 years Photos by Mac Lacy Sails of all sizes grace Nice's crowded harbor. Window boxes in St. Paul de Vence Wi Wi Wi d nd nd ow w ow b b ox ox es es e i i n n St St . Pa Pa ul ul d d e e Ve Ve e nc nc e Window boxes in St. Paul de Vence This fountain still serves St. Paul de Vence. T The Chagall Museum rests just a few Th Th e e Ch Ch ag ag l al a l l Mu Mu se s um um r r es s ts ts t j j us us t t a a fe fe e w w The Chagall Museum rests just a few blocks from the Matisse Museum. bl bl l oc oc ks ks k f f ro r m m th th e e Ma Ma M ti ti ss ss e e Mu Mu Mu se se um um . blocks from the Matisse Museum. Fleur Artwork by Donia Simmons

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